The Anti-Mayo Crusade

When I was seven years old, my godparents were watching me and my sister while my parents were out one night. They brought cold subs from a local deli – so I chose one that looked like roast beef. As I was hungry, I took a big bite...but it was the most disgusting thing I’ve ever eaten – nothing like the sandwiches that my mother made. I started to investigate the sandwich to determine what it was that made it taste so terrible. The roast beef looked like regular roast beef. Same with the cheese. But then I noticed something weird on the sandwich. Some white, gooey stuff smeared on the bread. It was at that moment when I realized that I despised mayonnaise.

Twenty-four years later, I still can’t eat sandwiches with mayonnaise…or creamy dressings…or deviled eggs…or chicken/egg/potato salad…or anything else that even remotely looks like it may have mayo in it. Although at its purest form, it’s merely a combination of egg yolk and oil, there’s something about the texture and taste that immediately churns my stomach. I had to make it at school, which was definitely my least favorite class. Watching Paula Deen sometimes makes me nauseous because she so much of this ingredient. I don’t even like having a jar of mayonnaise in our fridge – that’s how strong my repulsion is.

However, I realize that sometimes when I cook, I cook for other people, and they don’t necessarily have the same aversion (although, interestingly, I’ve been finding more and more people who avoid this ingredient as vehemently as me). So, when the situation arises that requires the use of mayonnaise (usually crab cakes), I will make my own. I will even taste it to ensure that the seasoning is correct (unless Eric is around and I will make him try it – like when I make him his birthday deviled eggs – yep, I only make deviled eggs once a year…and it still grosses me out every time Eric’s birthday rolls around).

But these days, I’m just cooking for Eric and me. And the other day, I was craving potato salad – sans mayonnaise of course. As I just finished Michael Pollan’s new book, In Defense of Food – a book that can be summarized in seven words (that are found on the book's cover): “Eat Food. Not too Much. Mostly Plants” – I decided to make it a hearty vegetarian meal by adding some cannellini beans. So I roasted some sweet potatoes (I find that roasting keeps the sweet potatoes intact and heightens the sweetness whereas boiling them makes them a bit mushier). I also threw some garlic cloves and half of the white beans on the pan to be roasted as well – I figured that while some of the beans would add a creamy texture to the dish, roasting a few would add a nice chewy texture (the beans sort of burst by the heat, but then brown up a bit).

Radicchio was added so that the bitterness would contrast with the sweet potatoes while spinach was tossed in to add brightness and color. The warm potatoes and beans were tossed to wilt the radicchio and spinach slightly. The roasted garlic was mashed and mixed into a red wine and shallot vinaigrette, providing a sharp bite to the dish.

Although Eric calls this a “girl salad” (a category that includes any dish with chopped vegetables and a small starch or grain – like wheatberry, Israeli couscous or orzo salad), I am in fact, a girl. So, in my book, this is a perfect dish when I want a veggie-friendly meal: a warm, hearty, and most importantly, mayo-free potato salad.

Warm Sweet Potato Salad

2 medium sweet potatoes – diced in ¾ inch cubes (I like to keep the skin on, but feel free to peel it if you’d like)
1 can cannellini beans – drained and rinsed
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
5 garlic cloves – unpeeled
½ head radicchio – cored and shredded
1 cup loosely packed spinach (or more if you like spinach) – roughly chopped
1 small shallot – minced
1 teaspoon thyme leaves
3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
½ cup extra virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground pepper

Preheat oven to 450 degrees F. Lightly oil large sheet pan.

In large bowl, toss sweet potatoes with 1 tablespoon olive oil. Season with 1 teaspoon salt and ½ teaspoon pepper. Spread in even layer.

In same mixing bowl toss cannellini beans with 1 teaspoon olive oil. Put half of the cannellini beans on sheet pan to be roasted.

Add garlic cloves to sheet pan. Roast for 12-15 minutes (checking halfway through and tossing the sweet potatoes) until sweet potatoes are caramelized and tender when pierced with a knife (note: the beans will explode, but the skins will continue to roast and provide a nice chewy addition to the salad).

While potatoes are cooking, add radicchio and spinach to same mixing bowl with remaining beans. Remove potatoes from oven.

Make dressing: In separate small bowl, mix together shallots, thyme, vinegar, and season with large pinch of salt and some pepper. Remove garlic cloves from sheet pan and squeeze cloves into bowl. Whisk together with vinegar and shallots (you may need to squish the garlic with a fork before whisking). Slowly drizzle in ½ cup extra virgin olive oil. Taste for seasoning (should be strong because there is a lot of salad to season).

Add potatoes and cooked beans to large mixing bowl. Top with dressing and toss thoroughly to combine. Check for seasoning and enjoy the mayo-free goodness.