Saturday, October 24, 2009

Go get the papers, get the papers

All photos by Kun Kim

Back in February, my friend Jason approached me with this crazy idea of starting a supper club on his back deck. Supper clubs had exploded in NYC – especially Brooklyn. But there would be a twist…we’d serve a family-style dinner on his deck and then show a movie on his projector for a “Dinner and a movie” night. And thus, Reel Tasty Brooklyn was created. At the time, there was snow on the ground and it was impossible to imagine that warm days would ever arrive, but the weeks quickly passed and the next thing we knew, it was May and our first dinner was upon us.

That first trial run meal with The Goonies seems so long ago – it’s hard to believe that it’s almost November and we just had our final Reel Tasty Brooklyn event of the season. And this one was a doozy…DeNiro…Pesci…Liotta…yep… you know it…Goodfellas.

Back at that lunch in February, Jason proclaimed that we “absolutely have to do Goodfellas”. Now I have a shaky history with mobster movies. I’ve never been a huge fan of the genre – in general, I find that with most mobster movies, I enjoy the coming of age portion (the first thirty minutes) but tend to lost interest once the main characters start taking hard-core drugs leading to their inevitable demise (the last forty-five minutes). The violence in the middle… I can give or take. Unfortunately, most gangster movies typically fall into some variation of this plot and so I don’t really watch them (a notable exception to this “mobster movie formula” is A Bronx Tale – which I love because it was all about the coming of age).

Although Goodfellas does, in fact, fall into this trap, I would never deny Jason one of his all-time favorite movies. Besides, I’ve had an on-going relationship with Goodfellas despite seeing it in its entirety merely three years ago (and, pathetically, on cable). During my senior year in college, after a night at the bars and a few slices later, my roommates and I would get home, crash on an ancient yellow couch, make Gleason cook us grilled cheese sandwiches (we ate a lot of these that year), and put Goodfellas in the VCR (yep, this was a l-o-n-g time ago). Inevitably, we would all be asleep after thirty minutes, but I always remember hearing “As far back as I can remember, I always wanted to be a gangster.”

But back to Reel Tasty. Goodfellas was the perfect way to end out our dinner and a movie series. It was a little on the chilly side – perfect for a hearty Italian feast. We actually received some press through a listing in the BrooklynBased newsletter - so we had a mix of new and repeat guests to share in the festivities.

Our menu for the evening:

Snacks
  • Slow-roasted tomatoes with goat cheese
  • Dry Italian sausage and Parmigiano-reggiano

Appetizers

  • Fontina & prosciutto arancini
  • Parmesan & pea arancini with spicy tomato dipping sauce
  • Gorgonzola polenta with sautéed mushrooms
  • Mozzarella-stuffed peppadews wrapped in prosciutto

Entrée

  • Rigatoni with Anello family gravy and marscapone cheese
  • Arugula salad with parmesan and lemon juice and extra virgin olive oil
  • Beef and pork bracciole
  • Whole roasted orata with garlic, lemon and olive

Dessert

  • Frangelico hot chocolate with homemade marshmallows
  • Cookie plates including: Chocolate-sandwich cookies with Nutella filling, pizzelles, pignoli cookies, almond and walnut biscotti, and pumpkin cookies with brown butter icing
  • Olive oil ice cream


I may have gotten a bit ambitious in the dessert – baking five different cookies on top of the appetizers, snacks and takeaway bags of chocolate salted-caramels nearly killed me (yes, I realize I said that about the Mississippi Mud Pies from the last dinner, but I’ve cooked all day before and this was an entirely new experience…sheet pan after sheet pan in an oven that never turned off for two straight days). But, it wouldn’t have been an Italian feast without my cousin Carmela’s pignoli cookies, pizzelles and biscotti (although most of the cookies went home with the guests in bags since everyone was so stuffed from dinner and parmesan popcorn…however, the hot chocolate was quickly consumed by all) .

In the end, I could not be more thrilled that Jason and I had that lunch back in February. Reel Tasty Brooklyn has been an incredible experience – meeting new people, trying new recipes, sharing a kitchen with a fantastic partner and learning more about who I am as a cook. We’ll be taking a break for a while – after all, it was in the high 50’s by the end of Goodfellas and everyone was bundled up like they were at the Thanksgiving Day high school football game (is this just a Massachusetts thing?). Jason and I are still working on some other RTB things – like a possible indoor event and/or a cook-experience book.

And if neither of those works out, then I can always get my shinebox.


Gorgonzola Polenta with Sautéed Mushrooms
This recipe was supposed to be grilled polenta but I was using a beautiful organic red and yellow polenta from Cayuga Farms which had a different ratio of meal to stock than store-bought polenta. I actually made the recipe twice and cut the stock in half the second time as well as extending the cooking time…but it still wouldn’t solidify enough to be grilled or sautéed. So I made a game-time decision to just serve the polenta in a bowl topped with the sautéed mushrooms. And it worked out just as well.

Gorgonzola Polenta
4 cups chicken stock
2 sprigs of fresh thyme
1 large garlic clove – peeled and crushed
1 cup polenta (not instant)
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
¼ pound gorgonzola - crumbled loosely

Sautéed Mushrooms
1 pound mixed mushrooms – I used a mix of cremini, shiitake and white button mushrooms – sliced
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 teaspoon soy sauce
2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves
1 tablespoon chopped parsley
1 wedge fresh lemon
Salt and freshly ground pepper

Gorgonzola Polenta: In a heavy saucepan, bring chicken stock, thyme sprigs and garlic clove to a boil. Gradually whisk in polenta in a thin stream. Cook over moderately low heat (barely boiling), stirring constantly. This will become very thick and when it bubbles, it may spatter – so a grease spatter guard is recommended (I still have a polenta burn on my arm).

Cooking time will be around 30-40 minutes. If it looks too dry, add a little more stock. When finished, remove from heat and stir in butter, gorgonzola and salt and pepper to taste. Keep covered until ready to serve. To reheat, cook over low heat with a little more stock to ensure a smooth and lumpless texture.

Sautéed Mushrooms: Heat 1 tablespoon of olive oil in a large sauté pan over moderately high heat. Add half of the sliced mushrooms (depending on the size of the pan, you may need to do more than two batches).

Cook, tossing occasionally, until water is removed from mushrooms. Season with salt and pepper. Continue cooking until liquid is evaporated. Mushrooms should be tender but a little crispy on the outside. Remove mushrooms and set aside.

Repeat with remaining mushrooms.

Once all mushrooms are cooked, place back in the pan on moderate heat. Add butter, thyme and soy sauce and toss until combined. Check for seasoning.

Put polenta into serving bowl and top with sautéed mushrooms. Sprinkle fresh parsley on top.

Serves 4.

Thursday, October 15, 2009

From far and wide

O, Canada, how you have spoiled me.

For as long as I can remember, I've always had a thing for Canada. Maybe it was my crush on Alex P. Keaton. Maybe it was the family trip to Prince Edward Island back in elementary school. Maybe it was my junior high through college obsession with the NHL. Maybe it's the way the residents pronounce "out" and "about" (which, evidently, I pronounce the same way). Maybe it was my Canadian roommate at the World Affairs Seminar in Wisconsin my junior year in high school who constantly called everyone "Hoser, eh". Maybe it was a combination of all of these factors. Regardless, I've always had a soft spot for our neighbor to the north.

And after four days spent in Toronto recently, those feelings remain. The reason for my trip was two-fold: a chance to visit my friend Sarah (who used to sit next to me at work and was part of the group responsible for one of my favorite birthday gifts ever) and to volunteer at Eat to the Beat - an annual breast cancer support fundraiser founded fourteen years ago by my fellow CulinaryCorps volunteer Lisa (of the Brownie Lover's Bible fame).

The indulgence began immediately when Sarah picked me up at the airport (that never happens in NYC) and we went directly to the St. Lawrence Market - Toronto's biggest market. We were a little late to catch the farmers, but the rest of the market had plenty to offer - including the famous Peameal bacon sandwich from Carousel Bakery.

Peameal bacon is Canadian bacon (cured pork loin) covered with a meal from yellow peas (often cornmeal is used nowadays) which is cooked and served on a soft kaiser roll. A tad bland on its own, a few hot peppers made it the perfect post-flight snack.

Later that evening, Sarah cooked up a delicious and hearty dinner of pork tenderloin with a basil-mustard-cream sauce, potato pancakes and steamed spinach. And as if I wasn't spoiled enough already, the next morning her boyfriend Dave whipped up a batch of light and fluffy peanut-butter and chocolate chip pancakes.


After exploring downtown Toronto in the sporadic rain for a few hours, Sarah and I wandered into Jamie Kennedy Wine Bar for a much-needed meal of wine, cheese, Moroccan pork "poutine", and pickerel with sweet corn and chorizo. This was followed by a perfectly autumnal apple almond cake with salted caramel and chantilly.

Poutine is a staple across Canada - French fries topped with fresh cheese curds and covered with brown gravy. This is an upscale version of poutine with quite possibly the best fries I've ever tasted.

I also had the chance to catch up with my friend Lisa at Pizzeria Libretto. I ordered the Margherita pizza which was extremely delicious, but ended up eating most of Lisa's pizza - an amazing Neapolitan pizza with Pingue prosciutto, arugula, tomato, garlic, oregano and shaved Parmegiano Reggiano. Unbelievable! The prosciutto is made by Fernando and Mario Pingue in Ottowa and is simply incredible - rich, salty, silky.

The next few days were spent volunteering at Eat to the Beat - an annual fundraising gala to support Willow Breast Cancer Support Canada. This event included 60 of Canada's leading female chefs and attended by over 800 guests - all people passionate about supporting an important (and very personal) cause. And one of the benefits to volunteering: sampling all of the delicious food. Some highlights included smoked pancetta on crostini with maple glaze, cornet with goat cheese and roasted beets, and a chocolate-filled cone with salted caramel cream.

All in all, a great few days with good food, good friends and a great cause.