A few weeks ago, my recently-married friends in Chicago who both enjoy cooking dropped a bombshell on me: they did not register for a Kitchenaid stand mixer.
What???
Really???
After getting over the initial shock, I tried to understand why a couple – even one that doesn't cook – wouldn’t register for this expensive but completely worth every penny machine. They proceeded to go into the whole well-we-don’t-really-want-people-to-have-to-buy-something-extravagent-like-that-and-we-don’t-know-if-we’d-really-use-it-even-though-it-is-really-cool song and dance.
The way I see it, when it comes to weddings, your friends and family are going to buy you gifts whether you want them to or not. So, you may as well pick things that you like and want. We registered for all sorts of random things – and received most of them.
But my stand mixer has been a part of my life for the past six years – a Christmas present from my parents back when Eric and I first started dating. I’ve made countless batches of cookies, oodles of fresh pasta and crackers and quart containers full of citrus juice.
However, it has only been in the past few weeks that I’ve learned the joys of the meat grinder attachment. And what a joy it is! Inspired by an article in Cook’s Illustrated about the famous Shake Shack burgers, I decided to surprise Eric with some homemade burgers. For those of you who haven’t heard of Shake Shack, it’s a burger stand in Madison Square Park in Manhattan that is owned by Danny Meyer – a famous restaurateur. The stand serves frozen custard and arguably one of the best burgers in the city. Personally, I’m not sure that it’s the best – especially with a new burger joint opening every week in NYC. But it’s a damn good burger – juicy, beefy, well-seasoned with a good burger to bun ratio (although, due to my general fear of mayonnaise, I actually do not get the special “Shack Sauce” – a Russian-dressing type sauce of ketchup, mayonnaise and relish; but the burger is still delicious, especially with a few pickle slices) – and the Shack has the lines to prove it. Unless you come at weird off hours or in the rain, you could easily wait a good hour in line to order – and another half hour for your food. Is it a burger worth 90 minutes of waiting? Absolutely not, especially for someone who gets impatient waiting for the light to turn at an intersection while in a cab. But, if I happen to go by on Saturday morning at 10:50am (they open at 11am) and there are only ten people in line, I may step in line. That is, as long as I have a good book, my iPod and my Treo.
But back to the burgers.
The Cook’s Illustrated recipe provides a method for using a food processor. However, I was happy to christen the meat grinder attachment that has been sitting unused on the shelf since Christmas. A few of the tricks that the magazine mentions is to make a very loose burger – not packing the meat down – basically just using your hands to lightly shape the ground meat into a burger shape on the sheet pan (but not picking up the meat). Also, instead of salting the meat throughout the burger, they advise just seasoning the top right before cooking. And that’s pretty much the trick to making a flavorful, juicy burger. Of course, these are definitely not burgers that should be put on the grill – some of mine fell apart when putting them in the pan. That’s not to say that these can’t be grilled; the meat will just need to be packed a little tighter in order to stay intact.
Taking a combination of flank steak and short ribs, I used the large grinder plate and sent the meat through twice. Just once and the meat looked a bit too big. I tried making a burger with the single ground meat, but it ended up being a bit too “chunky” (what a weird word to describe a burger). I used my trusty cast iron pan to lightly toast the soft potato buns in some butter. Then cranked the heat up and gently put the burgers in the pan, seasoned side down. They tend to fall apart slightly, which is not too big of a deal – even if overcooked, the burgers are still juicy. Of course, my favorite part of the burger is the crispy, almost-burnt “crust”.
Topping the burger is some white American cheese (for some reason Eric thinks that the white American tastes better than the orangey-yellow version), a tomato slice, some lettuce and relish made from some McClure’s delicious and brisk spicy pickles (purchased at the Brooklyn Flea in Fort Greene and roughly chopped in my mini food processor). The burger is so juicy and flavorful with the relish adding a nicely acidic tang that even Eric agrees that it doesn’t need ketchup or mayonnaise (which I would never allow on my burger anyway).
I’ve now vowed never to buy pre-ground meat again. Eric is already pushing for me to grind all of the meat for his chili. As for my friends in Chicago, if I could just get them to visit so that I could feed them some of these burgers, I am sure that they would run out immediately and get this wondrous machine.
“Shake Shack” Burgers
Adapted from Cook’s Illustrated
1 pound flank steak – cut into 1-inch cubes
½ pound short ribs – removed from bone and cut into 1-inch cubes
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
6 slices white American cheese
1 ripe beefsteak tomato – sliced thinly
6 pieces of lettuce
6 soft potato buns
Butter
4 pickle spears
Spread meat on sheet pan and freeze for about one hour. Once meat is firm, push through the grinder attachment using the plate with large holes (making sure to mix the chunks of flank and short ribs when pushing through the grinder). Once all meat is ground, push through the grinder a second time. Divide meat into six piles on sheet pan. Using both hands, gently shape into burgers (do NOT pick patties up – you want the meat to be loose).
In a heavy-bottom pan (I like using my cast iron), heat about a tablespoon of butter over medium heat. Toast the flat side of the potato buns. Remove buns from pan and increase heat to medium high.
Generously season top of patties with kosher salt and freshly ground pepper. Place seasoned side down in hot grill pan. The burger may fall apart slightly – but fret not, it will still be juicy and delicious. While cooking, season other side of patty with salt and pepper. When nicely caramelized, carefully flip burger and cook on other side (according to taste – I tend to like my burgers medium rare, but have frequently overcooked these burgers and still enjoyed them) topping with cheese.
Once finished, put on toasted bun and add relish, tomato and lettuce. Take a bite and enjoy your masterpiece.
Serves 6 (or, in my case, my husband, my always-hungry neighbor and me).
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